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Hydrogen Bonds In Hair

How H-Bonds Affect Hair

Hydrogen Bonds in Hair

How they effect bounce and body

    Bounce and body are a direct reflection of elasticity. When a client says, "I hair gets limp, has no body, gets flat, etc.. They are telling you, "My H-Bonds need help. They are going to a beta state when I want them to go alpha. They need a low pH, electrolytes, or less humectants."

    As an owner/stylist you know this. The trick is convening the necessary information to the client in terms they can understand.

    If you read the following you will:
    1) Look like a super star to your clients.
    2) Have your clients with natural elasticity (spring and bounce)
    3) Gain new clients as a result.

    When a client says, "I have tried conditioners, but they make my hair go limp." Explain, "Yes they will, you need an acidifier instead. It is not a conditioner but rather the opposite. Acidifiers add body, they do not cause the hair to go limp. That is why they were created!"

    Now you have to recommend an acidifier. Here are some thoughts:
    - Sunset Hair Elements Hair Repair (pH 3.5) (best pick)
    - Nexxus Ensure (pH 3.0)
    - L'anza Chemical Balancer (pH 2.5) (professional use only)
    - Paul Mitchell Seal and Shine (pH 3.0)
    - Nexxus Epitome (pH3.0)
    - Nexxus Emergencee (pH3.0)
    - Call Matrix - ask for a pH product 3.5 or lower
    - Call Aveda - ask for a pH product 3.5 or lower
    - Call your favorite brand - ask for a pH product 3.5 or lower
    Acidifiers should be used daily (not L'anza Chem. Bal.). They are the most beneficial product a client can purchase. Acidifiers also, detangle, and add shine. 

    How they effect the "frizzies"

      Again, water breaks H-bonds and cause them to go beta. In high humidity climates this is a big problem. Also, with fine hair. Humectants in the hair draw moisture in to the cortex. This in turn breaks the H-bonds, and causes lack of elasticity. Slight moisture variances cause the "frizzies". There are several ways to correct the situation.

      1) Add a silicone based product to the hair: These products do not work well with fine  hair but are poor humectants and will not much if any moisture into the hair.
      2) Add a gel, spray, or spray gel to your clients daily schedule: This will provide a barrier to moisture.
      3) Add a liquid (aqueous) protein schedule: This will take up room in the cortex normally used by moisture. NOT A CREME BASED PROTEIN.

    How they effect color and perms

      H-bonds are not so much effected as the use of acidifiers. If you do hair color. You know about acidifiers (should know).