All About Hair Color

Professional Hair Color Tips and The Color Wheel

It may sound a bit odd but your hair is a mixture of 3 colors; red yellow, and blue. These are the primary colors. Secondary colors are orange, green, and violet. If you look at the "wheel" a color opposite (directly across) will "negate" that color. This means if your hair is a orange color - blue will make it a brown/black color. If you hair has a yellow tone, violet will cancel it out.

The color wheel - the key to great color

One of the most important elements of hair coloring is determining the hairs' "underlying pigmet" (the hairs' natural color.) When you choose a color in a swatch book, your hair may not come out that color because of the underlying pigment in your hair.

Underlying Color + Artificial Color = Final Result

Levels of Hair Color

  • 1 = Black
  • 2 = Very Dark Brown
  • 3 = Dark Brown
  • 4 = Brown
  • 5 = Medium Brown
  • 6 = Light Brown
  • 7 = Dark Blonde
  • 8 = Light Blonde
  • 9 = Very Light Blonde
  • 10 = Light Platium Blonde

Types of Haircolor

  • Temporary - color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.

  • Semi-Temporary - color lasts up to 4-6 shampoos. Usually contain no ammonia and does not have a developer.

  • Demi-Permanent - color usually contains little or no ammonia and utilizes a low peroxide developer (under 10 vol.) the color lasts about 6 weeks and fades gradually back to the natural shade.

  • Semi-Permanent - color usually contains some ammonia and uses a deloper of 10 to 20 vol.

  • Permanent - color formulas change the natural hair color. They require maintenance to new hair growth after 4 to 6 weeks. (For the purposes of this guide we will be discussing Permanent colors and methods of processing only.)

How it Works

Before any permanent color can be deposited into the hair shaft, the cuticle, or outer layer, must be opened. The insoluble formula then reacts with the cortex, or middle layer, to deposit or remove the color. The color is available in a variety of forms; creams, gels or tubes, or shampoos. These will not permanently change the hair color until they are part of an oxidation chemical reaction.

The Oxidizing Agent or Developer is hydrogen peroxide in one of various forms and strengths. lt is the catalyst or cause of the chemical reaction which allows the formula to permanently alter the hair's color. The strength of the developer is determined by the desired results and the manufacturer's directions.

  • 10 Volume - Color deposit with only slight lightening
  • 20 Volume - Maximum color deposit as for gray or white hair with lightening
  • 30 Volume - Strong lightening action with less color deposit
  • Bleaching Boosters - Can be added to increase lifting action. Consult manufacturer's instructions. Too much developer and the color may not have good highlights, cover poorly, not lift to the correct level and fade more quickly.


Color and Highlight Care Tips and Techniques

Color treated hair has special needs and good care is essential for any hair type. Follow these 12 professional suggestions to keep your hair looking fantastic!

1. Wet your hair with bottled spring water
before getting in a chlorine pool. It will dilute the harsh chemicals.

2. Be careful in the sun.
Use hats, scarves or products with sunscreens to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun.

3. Leave-in conditioners generally contain sunscreens
To protect against color fade. Great for the beach!

4. Wash hair gently with a shampoo for color-treated hair.
Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair. Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to color treated hair.

5. Use color enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.

6. Do not wrap in a towel turban when you get out of the shower with wet hair.
The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.

7. Don't brush hair when wet.
Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the ends toward the scalp.

8. Don't overdry.
When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost, but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.

9. Use care when styling.
When using styling appliances, use thermal protectant for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.

10. Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair.
These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.

11. Don't spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.

12. Always your best source, your stylist
Can answer any other questions you might have and recommend professional products ideal for color-treated hair.