DAMAGED HAIR
The A Helix Coil || Bonding
with Keratin || Hydrogen Bonds ||
Salt Bonds || Cystine Bonds
|| Sugar Bonds
Preventing Damage || Quick
Fixes || Real Solutions
- We will begin by defining the hair.
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>> Damaged Hair Products <<
Hair is composed primarily of proteins (88%). These proteins are of
a hard fibrous type known as keratin. Keratin protein is comprised
of what we call "polypeptide chains.” The word, polypeptide, comes
from the Greek word "poly" meaning many and "peptos" meaning digested
or broken down. In essence, if we break down protein, we have individual
amino acids. Many (poly) amino acids joined together form a "polypeptide
chain". Two amino acids are joined together by a "peptide bond", and
the correct number of amino acids placed in their correct order will
form a specific protein; i.e. keratin, insulin, collagen and so on.
The "alpha helix" is the descriptive term given to the polypeptide
chain that forms the keratin protein found in human hair. Its structure
is a coiled coil. The amino acids link together to form the coil and
there are approximately 3.6 amino acids per turn of the helix (coil).
Each amino acid is connected together by a "peptide bond". The peptide
bond is located between the carbon atom of one amino acid extending
to bond with the nitrogen atom of the next amino acid.
- The A Helix Coil
In the organization of a single hair, three "alpha helices" are twisted
together to form a "protofibril". This is actually the first fibril
structure of the hair. Nine protofibrils are then bundled in a circle
around two or more to form an eleven-stranded cable known as the "microfibril".
These microfibrils are embedded in an amphorous unorganized protein
matrix of high sulfur content, and hundreds of such microfibrils are
cemented into an irregular fibrous bundle called a "macrofibril".
These macrofibrils are grouped together to form the cortex (or the
main body) layers of the hair fiber. Packed dead cells surround these
structures and are known as the cuticular layers of the hair. In the
center of these structures lies the medullary canal, which is actually
apart of the excretory system and houses any foreign debris, heavy
metals, synthetics and medications that are thrown off by the body
and eventually released through the canal.
- Bonding in Keratin
Protein
- When the hair is in its normal unstretched state. It is referred
to as A of alpha keratin. The original configuration of the hair
is held in place by the bonding found in the cortex layers of
the hair. As we stated earlier, keratin protein begins with an
alpha helix building into protofibrils, microfibrils, macrofibrils,
then cortex layers. The bonds in the hair are located within each
and every alpha helix.
The Hydrogen Bond
- The first bond we will discuss is the hydrogen bond. This bond
is located between the coils of the alpha helix and is responsible
for the ability of the hair to be stretched elasticity) and return
back to its original shape. The hydrogen bonds allow us to change
the shape of the hair temporarily with the aid of water. These
bonds are electrolytically controlled and are the most readily
broken down and the most readily reformed. These bonds are responsible
for approximately 35% of the strength of the hair and 50% of the
hair's elasticity (some would argue up to 99.9% of the hair’s
elasticity).
- The Salt Bond
- The salt bond is also an ionic (electrolytically controlled)
bond formed by the electron transfer from the side chain of a
basic amino group (an amino acid with an 00C- group) to the side
chain of an acidic amino acid, i.e. NH3+. (This is two positive
and negative charges attracting one another.) This occurs in a
position paralleled to the axis line of the rotation of the helix
of the hair. The salt bond is responsible for approximately 35%
of the strength of the hair and 50% of the hair's elasticity.
- The Cystine
Bond
- The cystine bond also known as the disulfide bond, sulfur bond,
or just S bond is formed by cross-links between cystine residues
(amino acids) of the main polypeptide chains. This bond is perpendicular
to the axis of the hair and between the polypeptide chains. Because
of its position in the hair, it is responsible for the hair's
toughness or abrasion resistance. (It actually holds the hair
fibers together.) These cross-links are frequent in the hair fiber,
with maximum of frequency of one cystine bond every four turns
of the alpha helix. This is what enables us to permanent wave
the hair.
- The Sugar Bond
- The sugar bond is formed between the side chain of an amino
acid having an OH group and an acidic amino group. This bond is
also formed perpendicular to the axis of the hair. Because of
its position, it gives the hair toughness but little strength
(5%). Some moisture is contributed to the hair as a by-product
of this bonding.
- Preventing Damage
- Damage to the hair is usually caused by heat (irons, blow drying,
curlers, heat lamps, etc.), U.V. rays (Sun, lights, tanning beds),
mechanical devices (combs, brushes, curling irons, etc.), chemicals
(color, perms, relaxers, pool chemicals, the air, etc), or poor
diet (specifically -lack of proteins and essential fatty acids).
Here are some ways to prevent or "help" prevent
damage to your hair:
- 1) Use a thermal protector when using heat. See "thermal protectors"
under conditioners
- 2) Do not blow dry the hair completely dry. Leave a little
moisture in.
- 3) Use a conditioner with U.V. protectors built in.
- 4) Use a low or no ammonia hair color.
- 5) Air oxidize perms instead of using the neutralizer.
- 6) Never brush wet or damp hair. Use a wide toothed comb. See
"tools"
- 7) On dry hair use a boars hair brush and start at the ends
and work up.
- 8) Clarify your hair after you swim.
- 9) Blow dry on the "cool" setting.
- 10) Eat protein rich foods (chicken, fish, nuts) - Eat foods
rich in essential fatty acids (not from animal sources [they contain
cholesterol]-only from botanical sources) -
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- Quick Fixes
- These are only temporary fixes.
They do not provide real solutions to damaged hair. They provide
a way to get the hair look good fast. Again, I hesitate to even
write this column because I do not want to give you the impression
these ideas should be used on a regular basis. True "fixes" are
above and below this column.
- 1) "Scrunch" or mist a glosser into dry hair. Many companies
claim glossers "repair the hair", they don't. They do coat the
hair with a layer of silicone oil (dimethicone, cyclomethicone)
see glossers under conditioners
- 2) Use a flexible styling gel. Apply to damp hair and blow
dry or air dry.
- 3) Take 1-3 drops of mineral oil in your hand. Rub your hands
together and "scrunch into dry hair.
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- Real Solutions
for Damaged Hair
- The following is written on the understanding you have already
damaged your hair and need help to repair the damage.
- Here are some real solutions that may take a little time. Please
note also that damaged hair IS NOT necessarily dry hair. Dry
hair (see) is a completely different topic. The
tips below will only strengthen the hair.
- 1) Use Nexxus Emergencee once a day for a week, then drop off
to once a week. Follow each Emergencee treatment with a good moisturizer.
- 2) Go to a salon that offers the L'anza Ultimate Treatment.
- 3) Start taking a good hair
supplement (this will take time, as hair grows on average
1/2" per month)
- 4) Mix a "cocktail" of 1oz. Nexxus Humectress, 1oz. Nexxus
Epitome, 1oz. Nexxus KerapHix, 1 teaspoon vegatable oil. Shake
well, apply (the size of a quarter ) to clean towel dried
hair, leave on for 10 minutes, rinse.
- 5) Another good "cocktail" is 1oz. Paul Mitchell Super Charged
Conditioner, 1oz. Paul Mitchell Hair Repair, 1oz. L'anza Reconstructor.
Mix well, apply the size of quarter to clean damp hair, leave
on 10 minutes, rinse.
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