Professional Tips About Hair Conditioners

What is a Hair Conditioner?

The term hair conditioner is vague. Hair conditioners fall into different groups according to what you want to accomplish with your hair. People with thin hair need a specific kind of conditioner, people with thick, dry hair need another…

Conditioners fall into six major categories:

  • Moisturizers
  • Reconstructors
  • Acidifiers
  • Detanglers
  • Thermal Protectors
  • Glossers
  • Oils (E.F.A.’s- essential fatty acids)

Moisturizers:
Are concentrated with humectants. Humectants are compounds that attract and hold moisture into the hair. They may not necessarily contain botanicals or protein (they often do).
Recommendations:
NuGen Emu Oil Conditioner

Reconstructors:
Normally contain protein. Hydrolyzed human hair keratin protein is the best source, because it contains all 19 amino acids found in the hair. Human hair keratin protein has a low molecular weight. This enables the it to penetrate the hair shaft (the cortex). The main purpose of a reconstructor is to strengthen the hair.
Recommendations:
GROW! Fast Hair Growth Conditioner

Acidifiers
The key word here is “acid”. Yes, is is good to put acid on your hair. When a product carries a pH of 3.0 to 3.5 it is normally termed an acidifier. This pH will close (compact) the cuticle layer of the hair. The result is hair with a natural mirror like surface which will naturally reflect light. Acids carry a positive electrical charge and will give a boost to the hair’s elasticity too making it, have body and bounce. This pH range will adjust the beta bonds to alpha bonds (hydrogen bonds). Acidifiers do not weigh the hair. They do create shine, and add elasticity. This category (acidifiers) is great for anyone but especially for people with fine thin hair since acidifiers don’t weight the hair down.

pH’s below 3.0 can be damaging. Lemon juice for example has a pH approx. of 2.5. Every uses lemon juice on your hair? Please don’t because that pH range will remove hair color. You may think, what is the big deal? It is only a half a pH off. The pH scale is nonlinear and there is a BIG difference. The pH scale is logarithmic and runs from 0.0 to 14.0 with 7.0 being neutral. Readings less than 7.0 indicate acidic solutions, while higher readings indicate alkaline or base solutions. Some extreme substances can score lower than 0 or greater than 14, but most fall within the scale. A logarithmic scale means that there is a ten-fold difference between each successive full number on the scale. An acidic solution reading 2.5 represents a ten-fold increase in acidic molecules over a 3.5 solution.
Recommendations:
Natural Hair Conditioner

Detanglers
Most detanglers are acidifiers (see above). Most have low pH’s 2.5 to 3.5. They close the cuticle of the hair which cause tangles. Some “shield” the hair shaft with polymers (polymers are strings of “like” molecules- a chain). Some detanglers are instant, some take 1-5 minutes to work.
Recommendations:
Sunset Hair Elements Hair Detangler Leave-In

Thermal Protectors
Thermal protectors safeguard the hair against heat. Using thermal protectors are one of the best things you can do to your hair if you blow dry, use curling irons, or hot rollers. They normally use heat absorbing polymers that distribute the heat, so your hair does not get heat damage (a major cause of hair damage)
Recommendations:
Sunset Hair Elements Thermal Spray

Glossers
For the most part glossers are cosmetic. Most Glossers contain dimethicone or cyclomethicone ( very light oils derived from silicone). Used in small amounts they reflect light. Also, they are one of the best products to control the “frizzies.”
Recommendations:
Moroccan Argan Oil

Oils (E.F.A.’s)
If you have dry hair (esp. if you have chemicals on your hair color-perm-relaxer} you need to add oil to your hair. The scalp produces a natural oil called sebum. EFA’s are the closest thing to natural sebum (sebum contain EFA’S). EFA’s can take very dry and porous hair and transform it into soft pliable hair.
Recommendations:
Macadamia Natural Oil Deep Repair Masque

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